PHILADELPHIA, PA - Old-School Philly Pies: Before water-filtering and artisan flour-dusting, scholars took over the pizza world. Corner shops and family-owned pizza Shops in Philly made regional tomato pies and other local favorites.
What to Know About Old-School Philly Pizza
In a city obsessed with cheesesteaks, hoagies, and its world-class modern food scene, Philadelphia's native pizza style often flies under the radar. But long before the Neapolitan wood-fired ovens and New York slice shops arrived, a unique and delicious style was born in the neighborhood bakeries and pizzerias of South Philly and Port Richmond.
It’s a style defined by a few key, non-negotiable rules, the most important of which is: the sauce goes on top.
Here is a guide to understanding and finding Philadelphia's classic, old-school pizza.
What is "Old-School Philly Pizza?"
Forget the thin, floppy crust or the deep-dish casserole. The original Philadelphia pie is all about the "upside-down" or "inverted" construction. This method, born from the city's Italian-American bakery traditions, builds the pizza in a way that’s the reverse of what most of the country is used to.
Here’s the breakdown:
-
The Crust: It starts with a medium-thick, focaccia-like dough that is pressed into a well-oiled square or rectangular sheet pan.
-
The Cheese: Next, slices of cheese (often mozzarella or a sharp provolone) are laid down directly on the dough, covering it from edge to edge.
-
The Sauce: Finally, a thick, chunky, cooked-down tomato sauce—what many locals would just call "gravy"—is ladled on top of the cheese.
The result is a minor miracle. The cheese-on-the-bottom acts as a barrier, preventing the crust from getting soggy. The dough, frying slightly in the oiled pan, develops a "fried" golden-brown, crispy edge and a fluffy, bread-like interior. And the sauce, as the top layer, roasts and caramelizes, making its bright tomato flavor the star of the show.
The Critical Distinction: Pizza vs. Tomato Pie
First-timers in Philadelphia often get confused, and for good reason. Is an old-school pizza the same as a "Tomato Pie"?
No. This is a crucial local distinction.
-
Old-School Pizza: This is a hot, cheesy, mozzarella-laden pie. It’s served at pizzerias like Santucci's or Celebre's. It's a full meal.
-
Bakery Tomato Pie: This is a different (though equally beloved) product. It’s a thick, bready crust, also baked in a sheet pan, slathered in a thick, sweet tomato sauce and served at room temperature or cold. It has little to no cheese, just a light dusting of Parmesan or Romano. You buy it at bakeries like Sarcone's or Corropolese's.
When you're looking for "old-school pizza," you are looking for the hot, inverted, cheesy version.
The Icons: Where to Find It
While dozens of neighborhood corner stores carry on this tradition, a few legendary names are synonymous with the old-school Philadelphia style.
1. The Pan-Baked King: Santucci's Original Square Pizza This is the quintessential example. Santucci's is the name when you talk about upside-down, square pizza in Philly. The family has been serving their signature pie since 1959. A "Santucci's pie" is the style's platonic ideal: a crispy, pan-baked crust with a layer of gooey cheese, all covered by their famously bright, chunky red sauce.
2. The Brick-Oven Legend: Tacconelli's Pizzeria Tacconelli's, in Port Richmond, represents the other major old-school Philly tradition. It's not the pan-baked, upside-down pie. It's an impossibly thin, crispy crust cooked in a massive, 100-year-old brick oven. The pizza here is so legendary, and the oven so specific, that you have to call ahead to "reserve your dough." They are famous for their "White Pie" (no sauce, just mozzarella, salt, and black pepper) and a "Red Pie" (no cheese, just sauce), in addition to traditional options. It's a one-of-a-kind experience.
3. The South Philly Classic: Celebre's Pizzeria Another standard-bearer for the upside-down, cheese-on-the-bottom style. Celebre's (pronounced Sell-uh-breez) has been a South Philly neighborhood institution for decades. It's a no-frills, cash-only joint that delivers a perfect, piping-hot example of the local style.
While Philadelphia's modern pizzerias deservedly get national attention, the city's pizza soul is found in these old-school institutions. It's a style built on tradition, where the sauce is king, and the crust is the throne.
